On The Road Again

I used to do quite a few weekends at Bacton on the cliff top and some very good sea fishing.
The very first time when we went we arrived in the dark noted the Gas Terminal and put down the constant noise of 'industry' to the plant. It soon became obvious that this bit of coast has some of the noisiest sea that I know of.
Although the beach is sand the sound resembles lorries tipping tons of rubble. Possibly amplified by the bay, I think the sea defences, multiple breakwaters and walls cause the sea to alter its direction this way and that dissipating its energy as noise.

Unfortunately the environment agency are probably right too, holding the sea back here merely makes it worse round the corner, poor old Happisburgh.

You don't often get near the sea to stay in the UK so our stay for a few days right on top of the sea wall was a treat.

Arriving at dusk the noise of the sea didn't have time to register in the sub concious and I awoke a few times wondering what the noise was. After that the constant thundering, even from a calm sea, lulled you off to sleep in minutes.

Then on the last night came 'the blow'. Wind generator up we watched TV on the Sunday evening with ample power. The BBC weather forecast on the 10 o'clock news said "Breezy in the East". I can still see that bloke standing there now, "Breezy in the East" he said over and over again on BBC News 24 (it is just a recording) till 3.00AM, until I gave up waiting for a break in the gale so that I could drop the wind generator.
The wind blew so much it was a real effort to open the door. The sea was a white seething mass breaking over the sea wall and spraying us. Ships at sea dropped anchor and displayed full lights.
The electronic Brake which normally pulls the Wind Generator to a halt did not a thing, I put as much load on as possible and went off to sleep. I saw the full 15Amps output regularly for extended periods. Well the set up has been tested in a gale and all is OK, I didn't intend to do the test. I have made a note, 'take no notice of the BBC Weather forecasts'. "Breezy in the East". "Hurricane, don't worry, it's not". Fools.

WEd 12th August

48.17.44N 002.46.57E IN18jh Nonville 75m ASL

Now going round Paris anti-clockwise about level with the southern most parts of the City in Seine et Marne region.
Isolated, so a chance for some radio. It is very hot, at 21.00 we are still trying to get the van cool with all windows open and blowers going.
We received a text from England, it seems it is still raining.

Arriving at a Riding School to stay the night the only person around is a teenage lad. Once again that odd phenomena of the language barrier sets in. The lad does English at school, confronted by a question from us in French 'is the next farm that sells Goats Cheese open now'? He finds he can speak neither English or French, it gets the young and the old sometimes. All he can do is walk to a notice and point. Go on says Sue try some English. 'Good Afternoon' he says in a very good accent.

Thurs 13th August

Another picture in the 'from the van door in the morning' series.

We head further north around Paris. After driving through Kilometres of rock infested hunting forests we stop off to see the Palace of Fontainebleau.

The royalty over sure sure over did it, no wonder they had a revolution on their hands. Around the courtyard are Orange Trees. The railings and gates with gold leaf detail and gold eagles, and this is only a hunting lodge.

It is easy to imagine the Kings and Queens descending the curving outdoor staircase, dresses and frock coats made of heavy curtain material with gold braid, their hair and faced plastered with best Bero Self Raising, to greet the guests, including the Pope who had his own room.

Sue managed to cause me embarrassment, I was out of the gates first and caught he as she passed by on the other side. 'Hey missus I am hungry, I have got no bread', I called through the railings to her, expecting her to join in with 'Then eat Brioche' but no, she turned and walked away muttering quietly, 'I am not with you'.
Turning round I saw a non French looking tourist, Dutch, Belgian, German, American may be, (they all speak good English apart from the Americans) with a large zoom lens camera fixing me with his gaze, I sloped off, he followed my departure until he felt safe.

Further north there are memories of the UK as the motorways near Paris get crowded with traffic and pounding lorries, turning east crossing the Sein at Melun and avoiding Disney World (like the plague), it is a pleasure to hit the countryside again in the Apple and Pear growing region of Sein et Marne.

Talking of avoidance I expected on this trip to loiter at MacDonald's Restaurants to use the Internet access. We did head for a MacCarpark once, it must have been a Sunday afternoon it was closed. We have seen a few warnings that the next town has a Mac however, somehow we rarely find ourselves anywhere where they are, preferring isolated spots like this Apple Orchard, well you cant have everything. Who wants reminding of the UK or worse still the home of the Mac when you are in France. Would you like a little cone of Frozen Reconstituted Insipid Extruded Spuds with that? 'No but I would love some proper chips', which of course in France is a Gary Lineker, oh this all gets too confusing.

Our chosen farm stop on the distant approach to De Gaule Airport produces Apples, is it possible to show how dark it can be in a French Orchard at night? maybe not.

Friday 14th August

We leave our overnight orchard stop and drive north past more acres of Apple Trees. Just like the lies we are told about France being a country of small inefficient farms, there is the Golden Delicious lie. There are green, red and russet apples in many varieties, it looks like a bumper crop this year. Nowhere is there any sign of the boring French Golden Delicious that they tell us is all that is grown in France?
Just where are they grown, we have visited many fruit growing regions all over with never a G D in sight.

Heading across, the villages have some odd stop signs enforcing the old 'give way to the right' rule, one is on a straight, through road the narrow road I have been halted for says 'Agricultural Vehicles Only'. This reminds me of Trevor an early enthusiast of Camping trips in France, one year he bent his car and himself badly when a Tractor and trailer emerged from a track on his right. Riding with Trevor was always a thrill so I bet he was going pretty fast.
Suddenly in contrast at Senlis there are more lorries than we have seen in 2 months coming on to a roundabout, I sit mesmerised until one flashes me to join the convoy. Gradually we lose them all as they go off on the pay routes in and out of Paris and we are on less populated dual carriageways.

Stopping for lunch in the main square in Grandvilliers with plenty of room and no restrictions. It seems foolish to return to our home town where you pay to park in any street within walking distance for an athlete and I wouldn't dream of taking any vehicle onto the Market Square at any time. The rules are so complex as to when and who can and can't approach even on non market days, make a mistake and a camera will spot you and send you a picture of you committing the crime along with your on the spot fine.

No trip to France would be complete without a picture of the municipal plantings. See if you can spot any litter, I scanned the whole square and there was none. Our Council executives, who called themselves 'strawberry flavoured' run a multi square mile litter bin.

We continue into the Somme region for our night stop and to stock up on Bread making Flour and in the morning a loaf fresh baked to order.

Saturday 15th August

A big mistake.

Heading north and toward the coast at Berck the motorways are busy then just as we leave solid with stationary traffic, at a round about we need to go straight on, to the left, toward the coast are solid queues of cars. I have never seen this on French roads, it is 30C so it would not be pleasant in those static cars. Berck is heaving La Touquet the same, across the river at Etaples it is quieter, apart from blue lighting Police and Fire vehicles, with room to park for lunch with a view of the Marina.
When we were in Berck it had clicked I took a look at the Rough Guide to France to confirm. It is Ascension day, (more like congestion day) today, that means a Bank Holiday weekend, the last for this summer too and good weather. Here I am moving, normally we would be settled somewhere quiet. Once we watched across the bay as the police and rescue services fought their way across the bridge to Oleron Island each time a frustrated driver decided to overtake and clout a car coming the other way.
What a clanger. We retire to the countryside and leave the sea and sand to the French, not a bad move, to a farm with Home Made Ice Cream, Fromage Blanc en Faisselle and
warm Milk straight from the cow. Here it is peaceful and almost deserted despite being only 10Km from the sea.

Sunday 16th August

In to Calais for tank emptying and shopping for stuff to take back. Error. Supermarkets shops, etc. are closed. The Calais'ians are celebrating Ascension day with a boot sale. Parking
is a bit limited at that end of the town so cars are parked actually on the grass of the roundabouts like the spokes of a wheel, try that in the UK. Surely the International
train terminal supermarkets will be open at City Europe. No closed, Europe is closed today and I have 10 tons of Coffee to buy at the best price.

In Calais we asked a lady, would the Supermarkets be open tomorrow, 'yes' she said.

Monday 17th August

Up early, 7.00AM to get to the Supermarkets and catch the Ferry. All done with military precision, the troops, Sue, needed constant driving to get her in and out of the huge Auchan.

On the Ferry the French passengers are giving disapproving looks to a fat tattooed family with two miserable, unruly, uncontrollable boys who need a good hiding. Yes they are English. We have been impressed by the happy polite well behaved kids in France as usual.

Back in the UK the sun was actually out but the outlook was dismal, somehow even the motorways are untidy despite the green grass and trees and of course we have to suffer the hold ups in contraflow.
Back in our home town after being violently hooted because I got in the wrong lane at the motorway exit, I signalled in plenty of time and moved into ample available space. Yes, Mr Car Driver, I used 3m of road which you considered you had the sole right to use to speed up to the red traffic light then halt, you had to halt behind me, it must have ruined your day. What a nation of stupid, selfish stressed out idiots we have become. We had none of this behaviour over the channel.
Then our home town, scruffy roads and pavements, worn out road markings, filthy buildings, litter, general neglect and a definite lack of Civic Pride. When is the next ferry back?

Monday 10th August

A Dutch Volkswagen camper van joined us yesterday, they went to the Irish Pub in town in the evening, we went to climb the 85 steps from the Loire that used to be the pilgrims way into the city. When we reached the town the sky went black, lightning flashed and it poured with rain. The Casino Supermarket provided a huge shelter with its canopy, when the rain eased we dashed from shop doorway to canopy to face the final leg, the river bridge.
A German family from the camp site, all dressed just as sensibly as us for the conditions, sleeveless tee shirts and shorts, dashed past one of our doorway refuges and under a canopy. We joined them sheltering at the bridge and when again the rain eased we all dodged the spots and puddles for the dash over the Loire. We didn't get very wet, nature and the local shops were very kind to us. Later it rained heavily for most of the night,
This morning the Dutch couple told us they were caught out just the same, finding the heavy rain just the right excuse for having another beer to see if it eased.
'We may have troubles when we want to leave' he said. His starter motor sometimes failed to turn, sure enough a push start was needed. Two English and one Dutch pusher were not sufficient for the uphill slope, soon we were joined by one older and another young French driver and the job was done.

We left to follow the Loire northwards, at Sancere the scene was so different from the last time we passed by in 2007 then it was a cold wet late June. We had lunch by the river, the number of bathers fisher folk and canoeists built up as time went by and Sue just had to join them for a swim in the Loire. I 'swam' up to my shins, get those feet cool and it travels all over via the pumping system.

Suitably cooled down we headed off to visit an organic (bio) vegetable grower in the Yonne region. He spoke some English and when I explained that I also grew organic vegetables he chatted with enthusiasm.
We purchased yellow Haricot Vert, Aubergine, Courgette and Cucumber. 'Have you tried Yellow Straight Courgette' he asked, producing a large specimen which resembled a cave mans club. 'No I wasn't sure what that was, we will buy one'. 'No I will give you it to try'. 'In which case keep the change from the stuff we have purchased' said Sue.

An English couple we met who have settled in France near Limouge said, "you will never get one over a French man. Give him 4 eggs and later he will give you 8 back".

Our vegetable grower dived into his box of mixed Cucumbers pulling out some white egg shaped ones, 'have you tried these'? 'I have seen pictures of them'. 'These Chinese Cucumbers'. 'No'. 'Try then and my odd varieties of Tomato I have outside, Purple, Golden, Pink and this one called Couer de Vache (Cows Heart) because of its shape',
Our bag began to groan under the weight of the freebies.

Wednesday 11th August

I set a destination in the SatNav only 50 mins away in Loiret. Coming across an Atac Supermarche we stopped for milk etc. in just a few Kilometers more we park right next to the Canal du Briare, we will stay at least for lunch, could be longer. We have come about 10Km as the crow flies to a most interesting place Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses. That is Seven Locks, quite a steep flight built in the 1600's to link two rivers the Loire and the Seine. This picture doesn't portray the steepness.

Not used now, the modern wide Canal de Briare with electrically operated gates and sluices has replaced it and has a viaduct over the Loire, built be Mssr Eifell.

This notice board will blow up if you right click - select view image so that you can read the details about the 7 Locks.

We went for a walk and had yet another long chat, with a guy who is doing maintenance work on a Hotel Boat, 'Meanderer' (sounds like us).

Hire it for 2500 Euro [EDIT on checking the website today I find there was a problem with the conversion of French numerical expression to English, that should read 22,500 Euro Ooops] for a week for 6 people cruising up to Paris or wherever, full board with chef and maid, stopping off to visit points of interest, Châteaux etc. a nice silver mini bus transports you there, all inclusive. Velo's provided if you want to bike, even wheel chairs. Is this sounding like an advert? Why not Tel.06 20 23 58 91.
The maintenance guy lives on a large boat near Paris, a few years ago we met an American couple on a large Barge like these, did he know of a boat named "1'eme"? 'Yes I have seen that boat on the Canals south of here', he proceeded to specify the length and beam, he had seen her all right, they are based toward the south too.

Several boats are or sale, we decided on this 1925 model 2 double bedrooms with en suite, Sue will want a nice conservatory type lounge in the huge wheelhouse to replace the deck chairs.

I spent the afternoon spinning for Zander, the Campingcarste next to us had caught and eaten one, would you believe at Atac I purchased some 2 part lures suitable for 'Sander', once again we would have gone hungry if we were relying on my catch. Then again the neighbour was live baiting and caught nowt either.

Another picture in the 'out of the van door in the morning series'.

Tue 4th August

Chastriex 1065m ASL 45.30.43N 002.44.04E JN15im

A quaint little village which seems to be struggling to keep up with the tourist accommodation which is needed to keep it going summer and winter when it is a ski resort. There are apartments available which would
need a lot of 'doing up' to purchase very cheaply.

A chance to do a little Ham Radio with a super quiet background noise. Apart from strong interference from the church, the bells are solenoid operated so when the clock strikes its an interference case for Ofcom.

The cows grazing on the high pastures respond to the 7.30AM infernal clanging from the church and come down cow bells clanging, an all together more charming sound, to be milked. Their milk goes solely into the production of the AOC Blue Auverne and Saint Nectaire cheeses of which we bought far too much for our cholesterol levels, from the local farmer / producer.

Before we left the Dordogne valley for the hills we stocked up on all the essentials, we could be away for some time. What you can't top us is the gas supply, we hadn't been here for more than an hour when the French cylinder ran out. I have an English cylinder for back up which I
don't want to run for long, that one I cant replace here. Problem? no the local shop sells gas, bread vegetables and fruit, fly spray and serves drinks.

Campingcars are welcome here, only room for 3 though on the Aire. Has this Mayor got the right idea? well I saw in the shop and the farmers cheese outlet nearly 200E spent by us and another French Campingcariste. The holiday accomodation may be fading but the local shop and the bar and
one Hotel and Cafe are still surviving.
This is a village which just must thrive in the winter it is a ski resort, given the snow, and in summer a wonderful place for hiking and sight seeing. Also for the wild life, there being Mouflons and Marmottes which translate according to our phrase book as Mouflons and Marmot.
The river and lake fishing is also reported as superb.

Wednesday 5th August

Dominating Chasteriex the Puy de Sancy is the highest 1886 meters in the volcanic groups of mountains. Puy de Dome is the one with a road up it and masts on top, used as a launching spot for hang gliders, there are a dozen or so in this picture.

So what is a Puy then? again our chat with Michele had kept us informed. A puy is what we would call a Crater in a volcano.
Today we drive north around the chain through Mont Dore town (too crowded) to Lac du Guery a real circular volcanic lake, and the Roches Truiliere and Sanadoire, volcanic domes made of Phonolite 'ringing stone' it makes a characteristic ring when tapped.

From there we paid a visit to Rochfort Montagne a no need to visit town that promised an Aire for water and disposal but the locals didn't know of it and there were no signs.
At the junction the road to the town had Gendarmes on guard. Along the lanes folk had stopped their cars locals were out on their patio chairs. Police cars and support cars came toward us but made no indication as to us changing our route. Is the Tour de France still on?
We asked a guy who had stopped his car at a junction if he was expecting Velo's? 'yes', how long? 'no idea' are they coming on our route? 'yes' should we continue? 'if the Gendarmes have not stopped you, OK'.

We reached Rochfort and the route through was barred. We parked up and waited with the small crowds, shopkeepers who had abandoned their shops and halted cars.
It was some time before the first riders came.

The French love their bikes, it doesn't do a lot for me, each group of riders get cheers and applause, the info about them is al in the newspaper, some folk make reference to it and pass on the details. I don't remember my old dad ever getting any cheers when he flogged up the hill from work each night, they are both blokes on bikes to me, my dad didn't shave his legs like some girlie either.

Mazaye just 7km from Puy de Dome was our base for the night, hot and sunny, shame about the house flies which have been around at these altitudes for a couple of days, still its a region with lots of animals
cows and now pigs also through the van door in the morning a pair of playful goats.

Thursday 6th August

Now in the northern limits of the Puy de Dome region the Aires are few and far between, the ones on the tourist map are proving to be non existent. No problem I have seen a photograph on the web of a Lake at Bromont Lamothe just right for a couple of days stay with cool Volcanic lake swimming, it should calm the savage passenger come
cook on the trip. The web give GPS co-ordinates there is an Aire with all facilities, showers for after the swims a cafe what more could you want? Well TomTom to stop sending you on a circuit round the same village and insisting on routing you into a field would be nice. They have built the A89 and obliterated the road. A tunnel OK for a car goes
under at one point no good for us. No problem for intrepid explorers, back to the new Autoroute roundabout and a turn off gives a link road, down to the lake and there is the dreaded height barrier, open at this time, no Aire just car parking and the cafe, beach etc.
Ah well, Bromont Lamothe village has an Aire, a poor spot that need tokens for the water and the toilet disposal water is off, looks like someone has shown their disapproval by kicking the tap it hangs loose on the fibre glass cabinet.

We need water and maybe diesel, Pontgibaud shows an Aire on the tourist map, oh yeh, well its only just down the road, not a bad little place but no signs of an Aire, well at least there is a Champion Supermarche with fuel.
Oh yes, if they hadn't run out maybe, 12.30 delivery says the girl, 'anywhere else for fuel'? not for Km's around it seems. We return at 14.00 still no diesel, 'maybe 15.00 delivery' says the girl. This one outlets inefficiency at re stocking is holding the whole region in gridlock.
I decide to risk it and head north through the Sioule Gorge with little chance of fuel to the Allier region.

All went well the fuel gauge seemed to stick at 1/4 full. The gorge is well worth seeing, particularly the ruined perched Chateau at Chateauneuf le Bains. Here in the village is another non existent tourist map Aire and even an Aire sign placed on a corner for maximum ambiguity just like the French do. We tried both directions and pronounced it another duffer.
The passenger/cook (she used to be navigator, a much grander title but she has fallen from grace since the lady on TomTom started to do a better job, just wait until we get a 12V Microwave oven in the 'van and they improve the ready meals) felt the need to hold on to the passenger door to prevent it falling off again so I could tell she was really enjoying the steep sided bendy roads.

Manzat proved to be a non ghost Aire, good clean well provided, large area and free.

The Volcanic ranges and Puy de Dome are still visible in the distance at places until we get nearer to Saint Priest en Murat JN16ki only 384m ASL now in Allier Region.

Friday 7th August

A run now to the Loire river and La Charite in the Bourgogne Region here the Aires list comes true a riverside stop and an added bonus too a Wifi Hotspot in the same road whoopee. I managed to post another blog entry all be it behind time.
What nice place this is, it got its new name due to the Pilgrims receiving charity here, a little like the gipsy marks that they put on your wall perhaps. Do they have one for M.O.B? I have never noticed anything on my house.

Investigating the town (City) which has many old ruins we spot a rather nice building in need of restoration. 'Just imagine having the a building like this to do up' said Sue. 'Do you want to help me' came a voice from a balcony above.
It was Oliver its new owner. Only in France would you get an invite in to inspect the place and hear his plans for the restoration. He will have an art gallery down stairs and live above. Then there are 2 more 'floors' and a nice timbered ceiling, only the huge
beams remain of the old rooms above. 'Maybe next year' Oliver says 'I will have reached the first stage.'OK we say we will come and check'. A nice experience and chat in mixed Englais and Francais.

Sat 8th August

We walked the old town, Monastic buildings and the Walls and Castle Turrets.

The night market in town tonight. A real mix, Cheese and Sausages, Clothes and Baubles, most of all the crowds and the atmosphere and Exotic Dancers, Sue wouldn't let me take one home, Brebis, (old dried out sheep cheese that is).

Sunday 9th August

With a spot like this and the warm weather we decide to stay on for another day. Sue still has some drawing of the town to finish no radio for me though, I don't want to advertise the gear to the many folk who are about, it feels very secure but who knows who is staying in the local camp-site etc.

Another shot in the through the 'van door in the morning series. The Loire.

In the afternoon an old gent drove by, seeing us returning to the 'van he stopped his car. Wanting to know if we were German, he had learned a little German when the soldiers were here. He spoke no English but continued in slow very understandable French,it must have been over half an hour chat we had finding out about each other, his son lives in Dominique he has not seen him for years and will probably never go to visit, he even asked what we were having for dinner, great stuff. It is a shame that some French folk clam up and others repeat the same phrase we couldn't understand just as fast over and over.

Thurs 30th July

After a few days back at Mansle with my friend and some fine French Cuisine cooked by
his friend we head for Correze Region. First impressions a hilly tidy green region
with good looking cows. Am I losing it? good looking cows!

The lakes get more abundant, some obviously Volcano Craters which have filled with
water, sandy beaches, swimming and water sports.
At Montgibaud 350m ASL on a Cider Farm we spend a silent, pitch dark night. The local
rock contains Mica some as sparkling grains other pieces would make an insulating
washer for a Power Transistor, or of course an SM Capacitor.

Friday 31st July

We stop for lunch at Meilhards and another lake, the communal area is occupied by Sculpturers producing works for the communes in the region.

Our planned night stop is at a Foi Gras Farm. The instructions are minimal but actually dead accurate if only we were to read and think before acting. 'Take the road to Rouffiat' meant go all the way Rouffiat not the farm is on the road to Rouffiat so after a climb up the road for 4Km assume its not there and go back to the village before. There Sue asked at the village square where they were setting up for the Farmers Market next day for confirmation of what I had now interpreted 'go to Rouffiat'. The language barrier hit, a fine old French fellow said 'I will take you, follow me'. Back up the road for 4.5Km climbing to 800m ASL we followed his car, he called the young Farmer Lady gave her a few kisses, told her he had found her some stupid English folk no doubt, shook hands and departed.
How many folk in England would drive 9Km to show some strangers the way?

Saturday 1st August

Not driving far we visit Lac de Sechimailes and an Aire to stay for a couple of days, only 650m ASL, temperatures in the 30's Centigrade a swim in the lake is grand.
The sand on the beach has small Mica particles and in the water, when stirred by bathers, they float continually,it is like swimming in a sparkling child's snow storm toy. The rock formation is light brown and pink Granite with the ever present MIca.
The night turns to thunder then heavy rain all night, no wonder the region is so green.

Sunday 2nd August

Remained overcast and cool, ideal for a ride into the town and later a walk in the forest around the lake.

Monday 3rd August

Not a long journey, after shopping in Meymac and trying to find some internet access.
Toward the Gorges of Dordogne. Some spectacular views on the way we arrived in Bort les Orgues in time for lunch. A nice town right on the Dordogne River and popular with
tourists and Campingcars. Now then why les Orgues the river is the Dordogne, there is no lake called Orgues, no adjacent town by the name.
Then I remembered the conversation with Michelle 'because the cliffs they
are worn like the pipes', yep thats it Organ Pipes.

The Gorge is steep and deep in one
spot on the road where you could see down to the river it reminded me of Bristol Avon Gorge on a larger scale. The river is dammed to produce a lake above he town and a Hydro Electric scheme.

Tue 30th June

We proceed to the south, the temperatures well into the 30's, it seems the UK have had a
similar good spell. One sure thing, theirs won't last.
At Artin on the Loir we finally find a new Aire, unfinished, it seems to be a private
project by a Campingcariste who has a riverside cabin complete with little boat house
and boat. There will be 5 fully serviced pitches, no electricity, the cabin uses solar.
We stayed for free, saw no one so we couldn't get any further info. it is one to keep an
eye on for a riverside stop.

Wed 1st July

We decide we have done enough unwinding and it is time to head for the sea, a quick call
in on mon ami in Mansle, knowing he is busy this week, we stay the night at Aigre,
near the Charente river.
Now Aigre used to be a free Aire to stay and 2E for water. Things do change and now
it seems that all is free including Electricity, the Electricity connector is the standard
old French one, I have the 16A Euro Connector and no adapter, but then I don't normally
bring mylead even. Connecting up would save a little gas on the fridge so I made a mental
note to get a French outdoor plug.

The regions Boule tournament is in full swing, we watched the players across the way
playing under floodlights.

In the morning there was a knock and and the lady from the Marie wants 5E for the night
with showers etc. included, I didnt read the colourful A4 notice on a door which could
have been an invite to the knitting circle. Still 5E is not a bad price for all in,
despite us not using any at all.

Thurs 2nd July

Leclerc at Marenne for provisions and a French plug which I fit to my lead at lunch time.

Oleron Island is one of our favorite spots despite the variable reception given to
Campingcars. We check on La Chateau for any changes. Yes they have built a new Aire
right next to the only Disco on the Island, lots of pitches, water and electricity
(they use the 16A Euro connector I have just taken off my lead)
included at 8E a night. We may give it a try if we are desperate but on the face of it
it seems they will get none of our expenditure this year. Just like Saint Dennis,
(I have called their Mayor fool before) in the North. What makes the Mayor of La Chateau
and his mob think that we want to pay 8E for Water every night when The new inflated price
for water is 4E for 100 ltr which lasts us a week, and be next to the Disco?

As it turned out these two communes had none of our expenditure this year. The supermarkets on the other
hand are no fools, Leclerc in particular at Saint Pierre have increased the size of their
store and car park, setting aside a large area for Campingcars to stay the night for free.

Wake up you silly Mayors, yes if Campingcars are not regulated you will get too many
in all the wrong places, trying to sting Campingcaristes means you won't get a return
on all the work you have done. Occupancy figures are low at both 8E Aires, local traders
do not benefit. Maybe we don't spent too much in the Restaurants but I wouldn't mind the
income from a few of the Campingcars food shopping, deisel, gas and etc.

The Maniac of Saint Trojan should get a mention too. Here in Trojan, Campingcars are
welcomed but of course not by all. We understand that some Restaurant owners think a
Campingcar takes up a place where a diner could park.
The Maniac of Saint Trojan keeps Restaurant hours and likes to blast his horn near
Campingcars when he leaves work late at night,he has been doing it for several years.
He is not unique, there was one in Biarritz too,I just hope I have never eaten in this
small minded fools establishment.

The rest of July passed by with lots of sun and several huge storms, one good soaking
right through to the skin is par for the course, We saw it coming on the beach but
thought it may miss us. No matter how fast we pedalled on our velos we couldn't dodge
those spots.
We varied our Municipal Aire stopping places with Vineyards and friends on the Charente
Maritime mainland some times we really slum it.

Oleron Island is typically represented by the Hollyhocks which grow in abundance, up
through the pavement in places and boats. I know you don't want to see pictures of bikini babes.

A nice little village in Charente Maritime is Mornac arty and boaty.

There will be no loop to the South this year so no visit to La Spice. We want to take
a look at the Massif Central.

I intended to do a weekly blog just like Mo on Balmaha, boy it is not easy. I failed in the first week. Internet access is not easy, I was thrown out of the free WiFi after each sent e-mail with a message 'Your session courtesy of Kodak' etc.

Well here goes.

Wednesday 24th June

We arrived in Dover by Sea France, cheaper than P and O this year and an existing customer discount to ensure they got our booking.

We lunched at the Old Port in glorious sunshine with the Ferries in the
background before following TomTom's directions toward Rouen.

At one point the Autoroute become a Toll Route, Tomtom instructed us to follow the non Toll route. Keeping to the right I took the lane for Caravans and Lorries, immediately I recognised the road, blow, we had done this before, we now had to go all the way down hill to a roundabout right round it and back up the hill, I could have taken the car lane with no problems.

At the top of the hill is a roundabout which takes us back to where we
would have been, the road descends and another right hand lane emerges
which being there on the inside we took, that took us right instead of
straight on, blow I did this last time too. Never mind TomTom soon has it
worked out a perilous Left turn across the oncoming stream a tight loop round a small island an back up the road to turn left to where we should have gone, yes you guessed it we did that last time too. I just hope there is no camera recording my antics each time I take this route. We vow to remember it next time, oh yes?

If we fill up with Diesel at home, Rouen is the place where it starts to run out, rapidly, big city, no problem, not when you are being guided through the industrial area, we have had fun and games before.
Rather tired and hot we decided Neuf Chatel en Bray would have a Le-Clerc for some Euros from the 'ole in the wall' and some diesel. It did, all went well, 50 Euro's of diesel gave me more than £50 back home and along with others I feel French diesel lasts longer.
Is this the better roads which get you further smoother and faster with less hold ups despite nutty mistakes, French wine, the holiday feeling or does it really give more MPG?

Once fuelled up it was off to the banks of the Sein for a couple of nights, we love it here the Ocean going ships that pass by are interesting and make for good photos like this one of a Campingcar wearing a ship as a hat.

We parked next to an English couple, sadly heading home early after being unlucky 'darn sarf'. Parked among 'vans of all nationalities they were targeted at 4AM by a thieving scum who broke the door lock.
Why do manufacturers of vans improve the lock and key system and leave them still vulnerable to a simple screwdriver and good crank? Sales Jargon that is all the locks are, many combinations so that it is unlikely that someone with the same model has the same key.
However if ya gotta screwdriver you can open them all.

The lady woke up to see the thief inside just leaving with her handbag, camera and phone.
I know how it make you feel to be done, they upped and drove North not thinking of reporting it to the police. They soon cancelled all credit cards that day but of course they needed a crime number for the insurance. Calling in on his brother who lives in France, he advised. 'Don't report it here, they won't want the crime reported in our region'.

Thursday 25th June

We volunteered to go to the village, Police National station 150m away with them to report and help with the lingo if the officer spoke no English. The building is big and impressive with pristine flags always flying otuside. We guessed that they might close for a 2 hour lunch and the sign on the door confirmed that. However it was well past opening time and firmly closed,'outside the opening hours use the system' it said. Like the intercom on flats a box sat on the wall, a large button marked "Appel". I pressed it, a recorded female voice said "Police National" and a lot more several times, the 'lot more' was at lower volume and a car or two passed by at the critical time.
I got Sue to put her ear to the speaker as I was in trouble, then a real live guy came on, no he spoke no English, Sue explained our needs, "wait there" he said,
We waited, no one appeared, the victim couple said no one will come we may as well go away, no, we said he definitely said wait here, the station doesn't look very occupied maybe he will come blue lighting round the corner.
Within about 10 mins a Police 4 wheel drive vehicle came down the hill and a young and very helpful couple, male and female officers took all details.
Tomorrow in the morning we have to return to the station when the local officer will be on duty he will have the details they took as he speaks no English at all and the form filling will be done. I stressed that the crime was in a different region and we were assured that that presents no problems.
We cycled along the side of the Sein in glorious sunshine.

Friday 26th June

A wonderful thunderstorm in the evening rumbled on overnight, at times it was like being in a battle. Part of the Camping magic is the closeness to heavy rain yet being dry and comfy.

The appointment with the Police went without a hitch except for John the victim of the theft signing in the wrong box. "Huh" said the charming young Officer, "now you are the Chief of this Police Station", and had to do the form again.
Later we headed off for a couple of hour drive to our favourite Cider Farm.

Saturday 26th June

Do you know what it is like to be a delivery drivers assistant on a French Cider Farm? I had the experience this morning. Seeing Rene loading cases of bottled cider on his van I went to assist. There were only 3 boxes actually, "are you coming with me" he said. A nearby village
was having a Fete, off we went to Saint Margerite, there the Marquee's were up and the supplies like our cider arriving. I introduced myself and shook a lot of French hands, Rene did a lot of what French men do, chatting, and we set off back to the farm.
We always like to cycle to the TI and view the Art Exposition there, the Artist's work was OK, neither of us rated it though.

Sunday 27th June

Off to the Trout Farm, stopping for water and emptying on the way we know a good Aire for this on the route, some English campingcariste's were settled in there for a couple of days on their way back from a south of France trip.
Michel at the Trout Farm was genuinely pleased to see us again despite being very busy. One of his Smoked Trout for dinner was beautiful as usual.

Monday 28th June

On his lunch break Michel gave us all the good spots to visit in the Massiff Central, his family home is there and the local knowledge should be very helpful for later on this trip.
Sixty school kids were on a trip to the Trout, they all fished and of course one lad just had to find out what it is like to be a fish swimming in the lake.
We fished later and our Trout was barbecued within the hour.

MOT (Ministry of Transport Annual Test) done, Oil change, Filters and Full Service done. I discussed the Cam Belt, we are nearly there on Miles, there on Time, is that borrowed time? So now the Cam Belt is new too.

It is funny how once you know the tension goes up so I 'took it easy' on a trip down to Milford on Sea.

We spent a long weekend, the one after Easter, you must remember it, it was fabulous weather, yes you must remember it, that was this years Summer.

We do not stay in the real forest in France, it's not really legal. We crossed the Loire at Ambois and after a long day we were very tired. There is a Forester in the area, a Guardian of the Forest who has a clearing and a tin roofed shack as his depot who invites people interested in the forest and its wildlife to visit. In addition Campingcars are invited to stay and 'observe the big wild beasts of the forest' (deer).

After several kilometres of drive on the road through forest we branched off on the access track and tucked into the clearing all alone. The Forester who has the timber and fungal rights turned up in the early evening to say hello and departed.

After our evening meal and the customary red wine I got the binoculars ready for some wild life spotting, but being so tired we retired to bed.
As darkness fell the noises started, grunts, howls, whines, screams, yelps it was a total cacophony, echoing barks getting resounding replies, several times we opened the window and wearily spied out for movement, it would have been nice to be sitting with a glass of wine in the hope of seeing some of the beasts but we just let the chorus lull us to sleep.

We do not give the 'van much use in the cold winter months. I like to give it a run every month and keep an eye on the state of the batteries. This involves opening the door to take a look at the Solar Panel Voltage/Current Indicator. Leading up to the shortest days the sun has had some spells and I have charged NiCad cells from the Solar supply. I remember on one occasion that the Voltage was only 12.5 on a dull day so I declined the use of 12 Volts to charge the NiCad's.
The other day I checked and the Indicator was dead. One of the Leisure Batteries was flat. It is amazing how quickly the Alarm and other sensors including the Solar Panel Indicator, (yes it takes power all the time in order to show you that it is not producing any), runs down an 80AH battery but remember the demand is 24/7.

I have two coupled Leisure batteries, the other one was switched out via the Isolator Switch, I don't remember when I did that. Closing the Isolator would not be the correct thing to do in this situation, what is needed is a balancing charge. Step forward the BUSE.
As a reminder the BUSE is my invention I solder a Halogen 12 Volt BUlb across an old blown FUse to produce a valuable piece of test gear.

I removed the 20 Amp fuse that links in the flat battery and replaced it with a BUSE, the bulb lit bright so proving that the battery was at least still able to take a charge. The BUSE by way of its Positive Temperature Coefficient of Resistance limits the current to less than an Amp. After a few hours I turned on the Hymer charger then after a few more hours swapped back the 20 Amp fuse. After three days the batteries were fully charged and the Solar Controller was applying 14.2 Volts pulsed conditioning charge as the sun was shining and supplying around 0.6 Amp.

Ssh don't tell anyone it looks as is if I might have got away with it. I can't praise the BUSE too much without it it would have been a struggle to rig up a surge limiter, just closing the switch could have damaged both batteries, rigging the charger to charge just the flattened battery would also have been awkward.

If the lack of Voltage had been due to a short the BUSE would have been used for fault finding, inserted instead of a blown fuse, if a short is still present then the worst thing that can happen is that the bulb lights.
The other use of the BUSE is to supply a balancing charge to the Vehicle battery from the Leisure batteries. This is often done by Camping Car owners by fitting a fuse which will blow if left in circuit when the engine is started. If this fuse, often specified by Motor Home journalists, is replaced by a BUSE then the it can remain in line, once again the worst thing that can happen is for the BUSE to light.